4 days roaming from hut to hut
High-mountain adventure for allImagine setting off into the wild, with peaks as far as the eye can see, dotted with streams, waterfalls and mountain lakes. An itinerant hike accessible to all over 4 days, with 3 nights in a refuge, during which you'll enjoy the Vanoise National Park and be able to observe exceptional flora and numerous animals: marmots, ibex, bearded vultures, black grouse... Welcome to Haute Maurienne Vanoise, a land of unspoilt mountains in the heart of Savoie.
In this idyllic setting, we invite you to join us on an adventure and discover the splendid Val Cenis landscape! 4 days of roaming from refuge to refuge, in the heart of the Vanoise National Park, that will leave you with memories to last a lifetime. Would you like to join us?
My 1st multi-day hiking experience
This year, with my friend Gwen, we've decided to go on a vacation that's all about sport and nature! Gwen is no stranger to refuges, but this will be a big first for me! I've done a few hikes and bivouacs before, but never multi-day treks.To do this, we organized two months in advance. A trek can't be improvised: there are many details to think about, such as choosing an itinerary suited to our physical abilities (finding the right balance between pleasure and sporting challenge), booking the refuges online (for an overnight stay, dinner, breakfast, picnic and shower), buying our train tickets, and checking the shuttle timetable for the journey between the station and the start of the hike.
As we're both sensitive to our ecological footprint, we've chosen to do a "Zero Trace" trek, meaning we'll minimize our impact on the natural environment as much as possible. We won't leave any garbage behind (and we'll pick some up if we find it), we'll make sure we respect the flora and fauna by not picking flowers (which is strictly forbidden in the heart of the Vanoise National Park) and by keeping our distance from wild animals. Finally, we'll stay on the marked trails to preserve the ecosystem and avoid trampling the flora.
Departure from the village of Val Cenis Termignon towards the Arpont refuge.
7.9km / 1,010 D+ / ≃ 3h 45minThe bus dropped us off in front of the town hall, and we immediately set off in the direction of the refuge de l'Arpont link here. This first part of the route is relatively flat, perfect for getting our legs under us while skirting a small river: the Doron. Once we arrived at the Châtel parking lot, things got serious! Indeed, this first day of the trek will be the most athletic of our adventure, with a 1,000-meter vertical drop over 6 km!
The climb is quite steep, but still very pleasant, as we progress mainly through the forest.
What's more, we pass magnificent waterfalls, offering welcome moments of coolness in the middle of summer.
After a two-hour climb, we emerge from the forest, at an altitude of almost 2,000 metres, into the heart of the Vanoise National Park. We enter a totally unspoilt territory.
We take the opportunity to take a short break and admire the scenery, then resume our hike, as we still have two hours to go.
We're now on the GR5, following a "balcony path" offering panoramic views of the valley and surrounding peaks.
The climb and the heat are making themselves felt, but our motivation remains intact!
Once we've arrived at the refuge, we settle into our room and take a (well-deserved!) shower before enjoying a drink on the terrace, which offers a superb view of the surrounding area. We then join the other hikers inside for dinner (in the refuge, everyone eats the same meal at the same time).
At the Arpont refuge, the atmosphere is very friendly! We share a table with a group of teenagers and their guides. On the menu: vegetable soup, meat in sauce with rice, cheese, chocolate cake, and... genepi as a digestive!
We soon realize that genepi is almost sacred here.
Personally, I find it a little strong, but I'll probably take a bottle home with me to introduce my friends and family to this local spirit.
Once we've had our fill, we head out to enjoy a sumptuous sunset of vivid, intense colors. Barely a few hours after our departure, we're already completely disoriented! The gentleness of the mountains and the calm they exude are simply magical!
On the way to our room, a crazy idea comes to mind...
What if we got up in the middle of the night to admire the starry sky?
After all, there's no light or noise pollution here, making it the perfect place to observe the infinitely large. We obviously put this idea into practice, and the least we can say is that even if it was a rude awakening, it was amply rewarded!
- Adjust the shoulder straps: tighten the straps so that the bag sits snugly against your back, without compressing your shoulders too much.
- Use the hip belt: transfer most of the weight to your hips by adjusting the belt so that it sits tightly over your hips.
- Adjust the chest strap: stabilize the bag and prevent it from swinging by adjusting the chest strap to a comfortable height.
- Load the bag correctly: place the heaviest objects close to your back and in the center to balance the weight and reduce strain on your back and shoulders.
From the Arpont refuge to the Entre deux Eaux refuge
12km / 567 D+ / ≃ 4h 30minAfter admiring the stars and the Milky Way, we have breakfast, pack our bags and head for the Entre deux Eaux refuge.
Leaving early is once again an excellent decision, as it gives us the chance to meet many wild animals!
Shortly before the Plan des Gressan stream, on the path, we come across marmots, then a small family of ibexes, as well as birds, one of which trots quietly ahead of us before taking flight.
The hut wardens told us it was probably a rock ptarmigan. Enchanting moments created by the early-morning light, the presence of the animals and the gentleness of the mountain.
We continue our day's hike for 2 hours, then take a break at the Lozières lakes. These are two small, breathtaking natural lakes! The temptation to take a dip is great, but we refrain: even if swimming in high-altitude lakes is not forbidden, it is not recommended to preserve the fragile ecosystems. We simply enjoy a nap, followed by a well-deserved picnic. A moment of sweetness and weightlessness.
In the early afternoon, we set off again, as we still have a good 2 hours' walk ahead of us! There are no difficulties along the way, as the path is easy to follow and the difference in altitude is well distributed. On the descent before the refuge, we come to a crossroads where we can choose to head for the Col de la Vanoise refuge (this is the direction of the Tarentaise valley and the "Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise" trail), but we're heading for Entre Deux Eaux.
Once we arrived at the refuge, we decided to have a snack (I hear it's good for the legs 😉 my city girl knees were also in serious need of a break after that long descent). This homemade blueberry tart is excellent! We chat with the refuge wardens and discover the origin of the name: The refuge is situated between two rivers that join to form the Torrent de la Rocheure.
We settle into the dormitory, then take a look around before returning to share a meal in the common room. Once again, the atmosphere is warm and friendly, and we chat with other hikers about our respective adventures! We didn't wake up at night for this second night in the refuge, as the weather had changed and there were a few thunderstorms during the night.
Useful info: a park shuttle stops near the Entre Deux Eaux refuge. So you can take it directly to Val Cenis-Termignon and enjoy a slightly shorter or less intense trek.
- Don't forget earplugs and a night mask: a quiet night in the dark is generally more restorative.
- Remember to take a sheet-bag: most refuges have blankets, but it's preferable to have this equipment to ensure greater comfort and hygiene.
- Pay attention to dinnertime: meals are often served at 7 p.m., so eat light to get a good night's sleep.
- Let the refuge know if you have a special diet: when booking, you can let them know if you have a special diet, so that they can adapt to your needs.
⚠ Refuges are not waste collection points, so you'll need to bring your rubbish bags with you.
From the Entre deux Eaux refuge to the Femma refuge
8.5km / 323 D+ / ≃ 2h 15minAfter breakfast in the early morning light, we set off for our last hut, the Femma. This day's trek promises to be relatively straightforward, as the route is not long and the difference in altitude is fairly small.
The first 30 minutes' walk to the refuge are not the most pleasant, as we're on the edge of a small road reserved for wardens, alpacists and the shuttle bus. However, we soon reach a path in the middle of nowhere.
The Femma refuge lies at the bottom of a valley, surrounded by mountains and a small river called Torrent de la Rocheure. Along the way, we come across countless marmots and groundhogs.
We're enjoying the spectacle of the little ones playing fight!
Once at the refuge, we meet the warden... but not only (also our friends the marmots 😉 ) and decide to ask him a few questions to learn a little more about his job.
After a hot shower, an outdoor siesta and a well-deserved aperitif, dinner time arrives and we join the other hikers in the common room. Here, all products are local and "refuge" made (even the bread! ).
After our ritual herbal tea in front of the sunset, we decide to share a moment of relaxation with the other hikers. Several board games are available, and we opt for a game of scrabble before taking one last look at the starry sky.
- Keep your distance: don't get too close to animals, for their safety and yours.
- Don't feed the animals: this can disrupt their natural diet and make them dependent on humans.
- Stay calm and discreet: avoid sudden movements and loud noises which can frighten animals.
- Respect their habitat: don't disturb their environment by leaving garbage or damaging vegetation.
- Remain vigilant: watch for signs of animal presence and be ready to back off or change path if necessary.
From the Femma refuge to Val Cenis Termignon
11km / 250 D+ / ≃ 2h 45As the day progresses, the weather clears and the sun reappears. On the way, we pass the Plan du Lac refuge, where we decide to stop for a few hours to enjoy a picnic and one last time the scenery and peace of the Vanoise National Park. Once our break is over, it's just a few minutes' walk to the Bellecombe parking lot.
It's the end of the journey: we hop on the free shuttle bus that takes us straight back to our starting point in Val Cenis - Termignon.
My favorites and... what I still have to work on
Now that the trek is over, it's time to take stock of this first itinerant experience.My favorites :
- Meals and evenings in the refuge with the other hikers were very rewarding moments of sharing (we even got in touch with some of them!).
- We ate very well in the refuge!
- In the high mountains, there's not much of a network, and disconnecting from the world feels really GOOD!
Things to work on:
- My knees are a bit fragile... A few muscle-strengthening exercises are necessary before another trek.
- Next time, we're leaving for 1 week of roaming! 4 days is great, but all we want to do is keep going.
- Day 1: Val Cenis Termignon Village Centre - Refuge de l'Arpont - 7.9 km / 1,010 m D+ / ≃ 3h 45 min
- Day 2: Refuge de l'Arpont - Refuge d'Entre Deux Eaux - 12 km / 567 m D+ / ≃ 4h 30 min
- Day 3: Refuge d'Entre Deux Eaux - Refuge de la Femma - 8.5 km / 323 m D+ / ≃ 2h 15 min
- Day 4: Refuge de la Femma - Centre du Village de Val Cenis Termignon - 11 km / 250 m D+ / ≃ 2h 45 min
Here are the contents of my bag for 4 days of trekking:
Sleeping gear:
- 1 pair of leggings + tank top
- Summer comforter (we could have opted for 1 sheet-bag, as the refuges we selected always offered blankets if needed)
Food and water:
- Picnic lunch for the first meal (the others will be taken in the refuges)
- Cereal bars
- Water: 2L (to carry it I opted for a water bag so as not to have to take off and put back on my bag every time I drink).
Clothing:
- 1 change of shorts + 2 T-shirts + 3 pairs of socks + 3 pairs of underwear + hiking pants
- 1 cap + 1 bonnet (even in midsummer, it's cool at altitude!), 1 pair of light gloves, 1 choker + 1 light fleece + 1 windbreaker/waterproof jacket
Miscellaneous equipment :
- Walking sticks, headlamp, Swiss Army knife, small first-aid kit
- Portable batteries, charging cables, cell phone
- Sunscreen, sunglasses
- Toiletries: toothbrush, toothpaste, hairbrush, soap, small towel, hair elastic, handkerchief, rubbish bag
Documents and money :
- Identity card
- Cash: for potential refuges or farms we may come across, which may not accept credit cards. Checkbooks are also an option.
Vanoise National Park
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise
