the Arpont-8

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise

7 Friday 2024
Imagine blue skies clinging to high mountains, rivers winding from peaks to valleys, and glaciers with eternal snows. The calls of marmots answer the rustle of the wind on the grass, and your lungs fill with fresh air. Welcome to Haute Maurienne Vanoise, a land of unspoilt mountains in the heart of Savoie.
Low-carbon roaming

Leaving from Modane station

Set against this idyllic backdrop, we invite you to join us on the mythical Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, starting from Modane. Five days of roaming in bivouacs, in the heart of the Vanoise National Park, for a total immersion experience in the heart of nature. Do you want a lift?

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Aussois pass
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, l'Arpont
Information
Who we are

"We" are Romane and Gwen, 26 and 27, two passionate backpackers. This summer, we decided to discover the famous Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise by bivouac, for a 100% nature experience. And to keep our carbon footprint to a minimum, we set off from Modane station.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Aussois pass

Day 1 - Modane to Fond d'Aussois refuge

5km - 480 D+ (gradient)

From Modane station, nestled deep in the valley, we take a bus to Aussois(line S52). After around 20 minutes, the bus drops us off in front of the Tourist Office, at the top of the village. From there 2 options: take the Grand Jeu chairlift to avoid 500 m of D+ or take the path. It's the start of the trip, we're motivated, it's decided, we're off! The ascent through the forest is pleasant and not technically difficult, with the added bonus of the lovely scent of pine trees, reminiscent of the south (which is normal, as we're right next to Italy and the Southern Alps!).

After a good hour's walk, we reach the Plan d'Amont dam. Located above the resort ofAussois, it marks the real starting point of our itinerary. After enjoying the view, we take it easy with a short 5km stage to the Fond d'Aussois refuge.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, departure from Modane station
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the bottom of Aussois
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the bottom of Aussois
Information
Did you know?
Haute Maurienne Vanoise is accessible by soft mobility!

Wherever you live, you can reach Modane station by train (4 hours by TGV from Paris), and then take advantage of a shuttle service to get around the valley. To get to Aussois from Modane station, take line S52. Find the soft mobility guide here.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the bottom of Aussois

After about an hour's hike, we arrive at Fond d'Aussois, where we take a snack break before pitching our tent: blueberry pie and local beers, facing a magnificent panorama, between the cirque where a stream meanders quietly, and the mountains of La Norma. In this magnificent valley, we're whistled at every 10 meters... by marmots! As we pass, they run off to hide in their burrows, but we still manage to snap a few nice photos. Heartfelt smiley faces guaranteed on the networks.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the bottom of Aussois
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, blueberry tart at the le fond d'Aussois refuge
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the bottom of Aussois

After dinner, night gently sets over the bivouac, offering a cameo of colors in the sky, a view we take with us to lull us to sleep.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the bottom of Aussois

Day 2 - Fond d'Aussois refuge to Valette refuge

19km - 1,355 D+ (over 12,000 feet)

Behind the mountains, the sun gradually rises, bathing the landscape in golden light. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off for the Col d'Aussois, the first stage of our second day's trek. Flirting with 3000m altitude, this pass marks the highest point of the route.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, la valette
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the bottom of Aussois

After a gentle ascent to the summit, a 360° view of the valley and peaks awaits us, with Aussois and the Plan d'Amont dam below, from where we set off the day before. For the more courageous, from the pass, climb another hundred meters or so, and find yourself at the summit of the Pointe de l'Observatoire, which culminates at 3,015m. A summit at 3,000 for your 2nd day of hiking, not bad!

For fans of altitude, or of challenges, discover other "3,000" accessible by hiking at Haute Maurienne Vanoise.

After a last look south towards Aussois, we cross the pass to change valleys: goodbye Maurienne, hello Tarentaise.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Aussois pass
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Aussois pass
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Aussois pass

The descent from the pass then takes us back to the valley floor, where we pass through the charming village of Montaimont, nestled cozily in the mountains, with its breathtaking views of the Vanoise glaciers.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, la Valette
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Montaimont
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Montaimont

We stop here for a break, before resuming our ascent to reach our stopover point for the night: the Valette refuge. Here, too, we pitch our tent in a breathtaking setting, on a grassy plateau facing the giants.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, la Valette
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, la Valette
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, la Valette
Information
Bivouacs in the Vanoise National Park

In the heart of the Vanoise National Park, bivouacs are regulated:

  • Bivouacs are only permitted near refuges, from June 1st to September 30th.
  • As the number of tent places is limited, reservations must be made with the refuge.
  • Tents must be pitched after 7 p.m. and dismantled by 8 a.m.
  • Only light, compact tents are permitted

More info on bivouac rules in the heart of the VNP

Bivouac or not, when you head off into the mountains, take care to respect the 0-trace principle: collect your garbage in garbage can bags and take them down with you to a collection point, so as not to leave any trace of your passage in nature!

⚠ The refuges are not waste collection points, so you'll need to take your rubbish bags back with you to the valley.

Day 3 - La Valette hut to Col de la Vanoise hut

12km - 1196 D+ (altitude gain)

After dismantling our tent at first light, we head for the Col de la Vanoise, where we'll spend our third night. From the Col de La Valette, we head for the Col du Grand Marchet, a crossing point that rises steeply between the peaks.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Grand Marchet pass
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Grand Marchet pass
Information
A little tip
To avoid unnecessary ascent, take the path leading to the Col du Petit Marchet (not signposted, but easy to find on your IGN map), which will save you having to descend to the very bottom of the cirque and then climb back up. Be careful, though: always stay on trails. Not only are "shortcuts" often a bad idea, but by leaving the trails you'll be trampling fragile flora that's already been subjected to the harshness of altitude.
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Grand Marchet pass

Following this scree-sided path, you reach the pass, which rises almost vertically above the Grand Marchet cirque. At the top, a simple ridge just a few meters wide, and a breathtaking view of the surrounding mountains.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Grand Marchet pass
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Grand Marchet pass

The descent then takes us above the village of Pralognan-la-Vanoise, from where we start climbing the second pass of the day: the Col de la Vanoise.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the Vanoise Pass

With the glaciers still in the background, this ascent once again offers a magical view, and once again it's a gentle one. After this sporting stage, we take a snack break at the refuge, before settling in for the night. After a long day, we'd still like to enjoy the Milky Way and the shooting stars, but... we fall asleep almost immediately.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, crêpe at the Col de la Vanoise refuge
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, the Vanoise Pass
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Col de la Vanoise refuge
Information
Managing food on the trek

To manage your food during a bivouac trek, you have two options:
- Total autonomy: you carry your own food and cook in the evening using a stove.
- Take your meals in the refuges: when you book your night's bivouac with the refuges, you have the option of booking half-board, which allows you to have dinner and lunch in the refuges, thus lightening the weight of your trekking food. The refuges also offer picnic lunches to take with you for the day.

Day 4 - Col de la Vanoise refuge to Arpont refuge

14km - 390 D+ climb

Back to the Maurienne and on to the Arpont refuge for the fourth stage of this Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise. For a warm-up, the day begins quietly, flat, between lakes and river.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Vanoise Pass

The verdant scenery then gradually gives way to a scree slope, from which you can enjoy the view of the Val Cenis mountains in front of you. We continue on this balcony path until we reach the magnificent Lozières lakes, with views of the Dôme de Chasseforêt.

the Arpont-11
the Arpont-10
the Arpont-8

A few more kilometers of walking, still with a breathtaking view, and we reach the Arpont refuge, perched on a mountainside. From its huge terrace, we can admire the unfolding mountain range in front of us, and behind it, the Vanoise glaciers, which have been towering over us ever since we left.

From the refuge, it's a short climb up to Lac de l'Arpont, a lake that didn't exist a few decades ago. It was formed by the retreat of the glacier due to climate change. Above, the Vanoise glacier dome remains impressive. In fact, it's the largest ice cap in the Alps.

1280x854-TDGDLV-l'Arpont-9©G-Monin-OTHMV
1280x854-TDGDLV-l'Arpont-7©G-Monin-OTHMV
1280x854-TDGDLV-l'Arpont-2©G-Monin-OTHMV
Information
Our tips for sleeping well in a bivouac

Even in midsummer, the mountains are cold at night, with temperatures sometimes plunging into negative territory, and the weather changing very quickly. To make sure you have a good night's sleep when bivouacking, make sure you're well equipped:
- A tent suitable for the mountains, with a ground sheet and waterproof, windproof canvas.
- A comforter warm enough for the weather forecast (always check the forecast well in advance).
- Nightwear, such as leggings and a long-sleeved merino wool teeshirt to keep you warm while you sleep, and a small hat.
To make sure you're well equipped, download our trekking gear guide!

Day 5 - Arpont refuge to Plan d'Amont

17km - 998 D+ climb

After four days on the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, it's time to head back, with a 17km stage to bring us back to our starting point.

1280x854-TDGDLV-l'Arpont-1©G-Monin-OTHMV
1280x854-TDGDLV-l'Arpont-5©G-Monin-OTHMV
1280x854-TDGDLV-l'Arpont-3©G-Monin-OTHMV

Once again, the path is magnificent, all on a balcony, and without any great technical difficulty. Here again, marmots are everywhere. And we're also flown over by a lammergeier, an immense vulture that nests in the vertiginous gorges below Arpont.

One more effort and we end up with a view of the Aussois ski lifts, and little by little, the Plan d'Amont dam, our final destination. At the end of 5 days, we're both in the groove and we'd love to keep going for a while longer, but... it's time to call it a day.

1280x854-TDGDLV-l'Arpont-6©G-Monin-OTHMV
1280x854-TDGDLV-Fond-d'Aussois-5©G-Monin-OTHMV
1280x854-TDGDLV-Fond-d'Aussois-2©G-Monin-OTHMV

At the bridge, we return to the path we took on the outward journey, which will take us back to the parking lot to conclude this mountain adventure.

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Montaimont
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise

At your own pace

Roaming over 3, 4, 5 or 7 days
We have chosen to do the Tour in 5 days, clockwise. But it's also possible to do it the other way round and/or at a different pace. The Tour des glaciers de la Vanoise can be done over 3, 4, 5 or 7 days, depending on your experience, your mood and your current level of fitness. Whatever your choice, there's just one thing to remember: make sure you're well-prepared beforehand (especially by booking your refuges!).

 

To take it easy

Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise from l'Orgère in 7 days and 6 nights (clockwise)

  • Day 1: L'Orgère - refuge de Peclet Polset. 8km, 891 D+, 400 D-. In July-August, access to l'Orgère by bus from Modane station with line 1 (or take the GR5 directly from Modane station).
  • Day 2: Peclet Polset hut - Roc de la Pêche hut. 12km, 565 D+, 1114 D-.
  • Day 3: Roc de la Pêche refuge - Valette refuge. 6km - 782 D+, 77 D-.
  • Day 4: Valette refuge - Col de la Vanoise refuge. 10km, 977 D+, 1049 D-.
  • Day 5: Col de la Vanoise refuge - Arpont refuge. 14km, 371 D+, 583 D-.
  • Day 6: refuge de l'Arpont - refuge de Plan Sec or refuge de La Fournache . 17km, 725 D+, 721 D-.
  • Day 7: Plan Sec hut or La Fournache hut - Orgère hut. 12km, 473 D+, 840 D-.
Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Aussois pass
... Or for the more sporty

Great hikers and regular trekkers, this route can also be completed in just 4 days. Here we propose the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise from Aussois in an anti-clockwise direction. Please note: this 4-day itinerary is for experienced sportsmen only.

  • Day 1: Grand Jeu chairlift - Arponts refuge. 15km, 729 D+, 666 D-. In July and August, access to the Grand Jeu chairlift (Aussois) by bus from Modane station on line S52.
  • Day 2: Arponts refuge - Col de la Vanoise refuge. 14km, 591 D+, 370 D-.
  • Day 3: Col de la Vanoise refuge - Valette refuge. 10km, 1045 D+, 972 D-.
  • Day 4: Valette refuge - Grand Jeu chairlift. 22km, 1336 D+, 1697 D-.

For the more motivated, you can continue to the Col de la Masse, and then descend directly to Modane via the Plateau du Mauvais Berger!

 

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Written by:
Gwendolyne Monin Community manager La Norma